Matrixyl (Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3) was the first synthetic peptide type developed by the corporations Sederma SA and L’Oreal and patented in the USA by Proctor & Gamble. Lately, it has generated a lot of media buzz and is found in a variety of skin care formulas on the market. Sederma SA claims that Matrixyl is at least as effective against wrinkles as retinol (synthetic Vitamin A) but does not cause skin irritation, which is a common side-effect of retinoids.
Matrixyl 3000: This is a more recent peptide raw material marketed by Sederma. It is also a synthetic pentapeptide (Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) which is said to act as cell messengers able to regulate the sequence of events required for skin repair (wound healing). Both Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000 are claimed to work in this way.
So, is there any science behind the hype? Chemically speaking, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Pal-KTTKS) is a relatively small synthetic molecule. It consists of five amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid to enhance oil solubility for the sake of better skin penetration. It is structurally related to the precursor of collagen. Researchers found that when added to a culture of skin cells in a test tube, both Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000 stimulated the synthesis of the key constituents of the skin matrix: collagen, elastin and glucosamnoglycans. How exactly they do this, remains unclear, although a number of theories exist.
Have they tested what happens to this synthetic peptide when it is metabolised within the body? Does it breakdown into its individual chemical components creating a toxic dump in the blood?
What are the long term effects?
Can synthetic chemical messengers that are put into the body stimulate tumor growth? Are we certain they don’t cause skin cancer?
Can the suppliers of the products containing Matrixyl and Matrixyl give us any answers? They have’nt as yet.
For centuries we have been eating fruit and vegetable high in amino acid and protein content. We understand how the amino acids from these natural sources are metabolised and excreted by the body. We know they are safe to use. Companies like Organic Apoteke have harvested this knowledge to create natural and organic amino acid and peptide complexes. Clinical and consumer studies show the efficacy of these natural, organic peptides which are similar if not greater than their synthetic alternatives. They too are shown to increase wound healing and decrease the depth and formation of wrinkles. And their safety profile is known.
Organic Apoteke is an organic skincare range. The Rasayana Rejuvenating Serum, Rejuvenating Face Cream, Rejuvenating Face Mask and Rejuvenating Eye Cream all utilise the natural amino acid and peptide complex that stimulates collagen synthesis.
When considering an eye cream, it’s worth bearing in mind that the key problems that it needs address – wrinkles, under-eye bags/shadows and puffiness. The extent of these problems can vary from person to person.